Tag: coat making

Burdastyle #130 10/2013 Coat Muslin

This year I thought I’d give coat-making another go and chose this pattern.

Burdastyle #130 10/2013 coat pattern
Burdastyle #130 10/2013 coat pattern

I chose this because:

1 – The pattern is in short sizes 17-21.

Burdastyle has two pattern sizing charts – size 34-52 designed for women height 168cm and short fitting sizes 17-26 for women height 160cm. I’m 162cm, so short sizing – CHECK!

2 – According to Burdastyle this coat pattern is designed for women with small busts and wider hips – so again – CHECK!

3 – Burdastyle also recommends using a patterned stripe fabric and I’m using this:-

'Chanel' wool coating fabric
‘Chanel’ wool coating fabric

So again – CHECK!

I bought this fabric at this year’s autumn Hollander Stoff Market in Karlsruhe, Germany and the vendor assured me that it’s by designer, Chanel. Not sure if this is really true but the guy who told me this does have designer fabrics so maybe it is, but either way, I really like it.

I’d decided to replace the hook and eye fastenings used in the pattern for a double ended zip because for a winter coat, that just makes more sense to me.

Stripe 'Chanel' wool coating fabric with zip options
Stripe ‘Chanel’ wool coating fabric with zip options

So far so good! I thought I’d hit upon a perfectly designed pattern for me and my fabric.

The thing I was wary about was the gathering on the skirt. How would that work in thick wool, I wondered?

I thought it wise to do a coat muslin first and thanks to a tip from Crab and Bee , this old bed sheet has now been reborn!

old bed sheet used to make coat muslin
old bed sheet used to make coat muslin

But check out that gathering! Words fail me! Next time, I’m going to ignore the model pictures in Burdastyle magazine because on one page the model is wearing the coat for shorties (height 160cm/5ft 3ins) and on the other page she’s wearing a top designed for taller women (height 176cm/5ft 9ins) and she looks good in both! Go figure!

I include the following shot for your entertainment only!

P1280370

l know, I know, I look like an extra from the Harrison Ford movie ‘Witness’!

And just to tickle your funny bones even more, here’s a back shot!

P1280371So happy now that I only subjected an old bed sheet to this and not my precious wool!

On the upside, the fit of the bodice is quite good so I’ve cut the extra peplum pattern pieces to make this jacket instead:-

Burdastyle #129 10/2013
Burdastyle #129 10/2013

Only question now is, do I still use the same fabric, bearing in mind that I have just less than three metres of it? Or do I use that for another longer coat and if so, which pattern?

I think this wool would be nice as this jacket and maybe I could squeeze a skirt out of what’s left.

What do you think? I’d be very grateful for suggestions, thanks!

Baby, it’s cold outside! Coat Review Burdastyle #103 10/2012

P1280316It’s minus ridiculous degrees here and like lots of other blogging sewists in the northern hemisphere, I’m turning my sewing attention to outerwear and warm and cosy things!

This is a wrap coat that I made last year from Burdastyle pattern #103 10/2012.

Burdastyle #103 10/2012
Burdastyle #103 10/2012

You need a double-sided fabric or at least a fabric with a decent looking reverse side to make this unlined coat because the reverse of the fabric shows on the huge collar. I used a dense, slightly felted wool knit fabric that I found at the Hollander Stoff Market and even though I needed the best part of three metres to make this, the coat is still lightweight.

Coat worn with hand-knitted cowl from
Coat worn with a cowl that I knitted

The construction of the coat was relatively easy. The only challenging part for me was hemming around the outer edge and getting the mitered corners finished off nicely. A quick check of my ‘Reader’s Digest – Complete Guide to Sewing’ on mitering soon remedied that though – it’s easy when you know how!

Side-seam pockets
Side-seam pockets

The pattern has some nice design features such as the side in-seam pockets and front shaping darts.

In-seam side pockets and collar
In-seam side pockets and collar

As is often the case for me with Burdastyle, the sizing was a bit generous. This is the smallest size 36 and the fit is ok on the shoulders, but I feel this style swamps my smaller frame. I didn’t alter anything, although the sleeves need shortening by a good five centimetres – I’ve just got them turned in here.

widen self fabric belt
widen self fabric belt

I’m not satisfied with the self fabric belt either – I think widening it would make it look better, it just isn’t balanced as it is.

I hope I’ll have better luck next time! I’m finishing off a coat muslin that I’ll post later this week.

Have you made a coat this winter? Are you happy with how it turned out?

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