I’m almost done with the #aweekofturias challenge!
It’s my final week of the #aweekofturias challenge to raise money for the #teamirfon cancer charity appeal on justgiving.com. Please sponsor mehere.
I’ve now made six pairs of the Turia dungaree pattern by Pauline Alice and last week I made a discovery – by reducing the size of the digital pattern printouts, I could also make dungarees for my young daughters!
I enjoyed some unselfish sewing and my daughters were also pleased to get some new clothes. They literally ripped the finished dungarees out of my hands, they couldn’t wait to wear them! A rare happening!
Resizing the digital pattern by reducing the print out size isn’t a perfect science as the proportions of a women’s body and a child’s body are different. However by calculating what proportion of the length of my torso my daughter’s torsos are and printing the patterns that size, the dungarees worked out fine. The fit’s good on both children. The gentle curvature of the hips of the Turia pattern isn’t that noticeable on my children and besides, in this relaxed style of pants, a little extra room in the body is welcomed by active kids.
For my almost-seven-year old daughter, I printed the pattern at 75% and cutting out size 38.
I used Liberty Art Fabrics baby cord for both pairs of dungarees. It was very easy to work with and the fabric’s so soft, it’s perfect to make comfortable clothing for children. The busy fabric pattern is also handy for disguising sewing mishaps such as not-as-neat-as-they-should-be topstitched seams and spills etc. when children are wearing it!
It was my younger daughter’s fourth birthday last week so we all wore our Turias for her party – that’s her in the above photo waiting for her party guests to arrive.
One of the main features of the Turia dungaree pattern, is the flat-felled seams and lots of topstitching. I used the same light grey topstitching thread on both of these dungarees. I chose not to use contrasting topstitching thread on my last denim pair of Turias, because I didn’t want to distract from the exposed denim selvedges.
For my four year old’s dungarees, I printed the pattern out at 67% and cut out size 40. I reduced the seam allowances to about one centimetre instead of following the one and half centimetre seam allowance in the pattern, in accordance with the pattern resizing.
This final week of the #aweekofturias challenge, I’m making the pair of dungarees that I’ll be auctioning, so stay tuned.
Here’s a sneak peek of the fabric.
These’ll be my most challenging-to-make pair yet in but I’m hoping they’ll be unique and worthy of your bid!
Please go to justgiving.com, #teamirfon and sponsor me if you haven’t already done so. I’d also like to thank the people who have sponsored me, I know Irfon will be happy!
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As the jumpsuit trend continues in ready to wear, more jumpsuit sewing patterns are springing up on the market, but with so much choice, it’s difficult to know which one to buy.
The good news is, I’m a ‘jumpsuit-a-holic’ and I’ve done a lot of the researching leg-work for you. Here’s my roundup of three of the best sleeveless jumpsuit patterns available at the moment, I hope they give you some jumpsuit ‘food for thought’!
You’ll notice that Simplicity 1325 isn’t strictly a jumpsuit pattern, at least Simplicity doesn’t market it as one, but, trust me, it has the ‘bones’ of a jumpsuit. (Skip to the end of this post to find out how to make this).
Now grab yourself a cuppa’, get yourself comfy and let’s get on with this ‘jumpsuit-athon’.
1. Style – all make a sleeveless v-necked jumpsuit and produce a similar looking silhouette.
2. Fabric – all can be made in a variety of fabrics.
3. Sizing – all available in a variety of sizes.
4. All are fairly easy to make.
1. Paper vs. Digital Download patterns – Simplicity 1325 and McCall’s M6083 are traditional paper patterns, by established pattern companies, that need cutting out or tracing and both include 1.5cm seam allowances.
Ralph Pink RP070 is by an independent pattern designer, that’s available as a digital download PDF that needs printing out, taping together and cutting out or tracing. Or you can pay a professional printer to print out the ‘copy shop’ version of the pattern for you. This pattern includes one centimetre seam allowances.
2. Price – McCall’s M6083 $11.95 plus postage;
Simplicity 1325 $10.75 plus postage;
Ralph Pink RP070 9.99 British pounds.
3. Pattern Instruction Languages – Simplicity 1325 and McCall’s M6083 pattern instructions are available in various languages whereas RP070 is only available in English.
4. Pattern Construction – Simplicity 1325 and M6083 have separate bodice and pants pieces whereas RP070 consists of four long main jumpsuit pieces – two front and two back. The upper back yoke is faced.
The separate bodice and pants pieces of the Simplicity 1325 and M6083 offer you more flexibility and freedom to design because for example you can use different fabrics for the bodice and the pants.
With RP070 on the other hand, the options to use contrasting fabric are limited to just the neck band, back bodice yoke and belt which limits the design possibilities.
5. Pockets – McCall’s M6083 has side front pockets in the pants, whereas Simplicity 1325 and RP070 don’t have any pockets.
6. Bodice Finishings – Simplicity 1325 has a lined, fitted bodice with a neck facing.
I also lined the pants by cutting the bodice and pants pieces out of my lining fabric and sewed them together in the same way as I did with the main wool fabric pieces. I then sewed the lining jumpsuit and the wool jumpsuit together, with right sides facing at the neck and arm openings. Then I turned the lining to the inside and under stitched it. I then treated the two layers as one and sewed the zip on top of the lining on the inside of the back of the bodice.
M6083 has an unlined bodice with neck facings and narrow hemmed armholes. RP070 isn’t lined and has a neck band (tutorial for how to make this neck band in a fabric with a directional print – coming soon) and armhole facings.
7. Waistlines – Simplicity 1325 has a fitted high waist where the bodice joins the pants. The bodice and pants have darts front and back. This makes a fitted bodice so I suggest making a muslim to check the fit before you cut into your fashion fabric. I had to reduce the seam allowances on the side seams slightly at this point to get a good fit.
McCall’s has an elastic casing along the seam where the bodice joins the pants at the high waist point. I omitted this elastic casing and use the self fabric belt instead to highlight the waist. Next time I make this, I’ll also lengthen the bodice pieces by a couple of centimetres to allow a more relaxed blouson effect of the mock-wrap front bodice.
RP070 drapes and gapes open at the front and is closed with a button fly (I used press studs instead) and a belt but the pattern has no waistline seam. The pattern pieces do narrow at the waist though which gives some waistline shaping.
8. Suitable fabrics – RP070 and McCall’s M6083 are designed for lightweight fabrics – I used shirt-weight cotton for both and a linen/cotton mix fabric for my second RP070.
Simplicity 1325 is more suitable for medium weight fabrics – I used a trouser-weight wool with a viscose lining.
9. Style – RP070 and Simplicity 1325 produce jumpsuits with deep v-necks that need something worn underneath.
McCall’s M6083 has a high cut v-neck which I can get away with wearing on its own.
All of the jumpsuits have fairly wide legs although RP070 has possibly the slimmest leg width of the three patterns.
10. Sizing – Simplicity 1325 and McCall’s M6083 have multi-sized tiled patterns, meaning all the sizes are on one pattern sheet, which makes grading between sizes easier. Plus the more generous 1.5cm seam allowances give you a bit more freedom to let out or take in seams to improve fit.
RP070 is also multisized but once you’ve chosen which pattern most closely fits your measurements, you print out the corresponding sized pattern and you only have one size on each pattern printout. This makes grading between sizes more difficult with RP070 and the smaller 1cm seam allowances don’t give you much room to make fit adjustments either.
I chose the pattern sizes which most closely matched my body measurements for all of the jumpsuits and found them to be fairly true to size.
I recommend all of these patterns and have happily worn my versions of all of them – a lot!
McCall’s M6083 is a good summer jumpsuit because it can be worn as a stand alone piece and can also be made from jersey – the only pattern of the three which can. The pockets are useful and the design is flattering.
Simplicity 1325 offers the best value for money because you get almost a whole wardrobe of pattern possibilities in one package – a jacket, pants, skirt, dress, long-sleeved top and an unofficial jumpsuit.
The deep v-necked front bodice is flattering and the design is closest to one of my favourite designer jumpsuits – this Luciano Soprani one below. It’s a pity Simplicity 1325 doesn’t have pockets though!
I’ve made RP070 three times and worn them year round. The layering possibilities of Simplicity 1325 and RP070 offer good year round wearing options.
The Simplicity 1325 jumpsuit is simple to make. Here’s how:- Sew the bodice and pants pieces together following the pattern instructions for the jumper/dress C/D by substituting the skirt pieces for the pants pieces. Then put a zip in the back of the bodice long enough to extend from the neck edge of the bodice down into the pants (for me the zip extends 17cm into the pants. Measure your back bodice piece and add on 15cm or so to calculate the length of zip you’ll need). Then hey presto, you have a jumpsuit!
If you’ve made any of these jumpsuits or if you make the Simplicity 1325 jumpsuit Franken-pattern, please leave a link in the comments below, I’d love to see them.
If you enjoyed this blogpost and would like to receive more sewing tips and resources, sign up for the YoSaMi newsletter for updates (they’re free) – the link is at the top of the sidebar.
Disclaimer: The unbiased views expressed in these reviews are my own. I didn’t receive any of these patterns for free and have no affiliation to any of these pattern companies nor to John Smedley Knitwear (although John Smedley, if you happen to read this, I’d happily wax lyrical about your knits in exchange for a few pullis because I LOVE your knitwear!)
It’s day twelve of Me-Made-May 2014 and so far I’ve upheld my pledge to wear at least one me-made garment every day this month. I’ve been posting my pics daily in the #MMMay14 page under ‘Makes’ in my header menu bar and also on the #MMMay14 Pinterest page.
I’m glad I’m doing this. I love to see other people’s makes on Pinterest and it’s a good way for me to find out what I need to make more of and looking at the photos forces me to see what suits me and what doesn’t.
After a really warm April, it’s turned chilly again and it’s been a challenge to find trans-seasonal pieces in my me-made wardrobe. I usually layer up tees and blouses with cardigans or jumpers and jeans. I can see I need to make more layering pieces such as light jackets and cardigans.
May 1st was a national holiday in Germany and we were invited for a bbq with friends so I wore my latest Ralph Pink jumpsuit in Liberty tana lawn cotton. I’ll blog about the making of this soon.
May 2nd was still warm enough for short sleeves so I wore my latest Make It Perfect Waterfall blouse in Missoni cotton with jeans.
May 3rd was cooler and I layered up this (un-blogged) tie-front blouse in Liberty tana lawn cotton with a cardigan and jeans to do grocery shopping at the farmer’s market in town.
May 4th was warm and we had a family day out in a park zoo so I wore an un-blogged Grainline Studio Scout tee in Liberty tana lawn cotton layered with a cardigan and jeans.
Monday May 5th is sports day for my young children so I wore an un-blogged self-drafted tank top in organic cotton jersey and self-drafted yoga pants in Liberty cotton jersey.
May 6th was my birthday so I marked the occasion by wearing my latest dress (un-blogged) in Italian cotton and cotton/silk. It was a bit cool so I wore it tunic style over jeans. The design is by Ely Kishimoto and the pattern was in Cut Magazine. I love this dress and will blog my review of it soon.
Are you joining in Me-Made-May 2014? How are you getting on? Are you discovering gaps in your me-made-wardrobe?
One year ago today, 1133 people were killed and over 2500 were injured when the Rana Plaza factory complex collapsed in Dhaka, Bangladesh. Social and environmental catastrophes in our fashion supply chains continue.
Fashion Revolution Day says enough is enough.
Be curious. Find out who made your clothes — from who spun the threads, to
who sewed them together, to who grew the cotton in the first place.
Your clothes already tell a story about who you are.
Now they can tell a better one.
WEAR IT #INSIDE OUT
Together we can use the power of fashion to catalyse change and reconnect the broken links in the supply chain. Wear your clothes inside-out to help start the beginning of an industry-wide transformation towards a more sustainable future.
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Hi folks, it’s Perfect Pattern Parcel (http://www.patternparcel.com) time again and this time the little one’s in our life are getting in on the wardrobe-building action!
But before we get to my pattern reviews, I’d like to welcome you to my new site! It’s really exciting to finally have my own domain and I’m looking forward to the possibilities that this platform offers. I hope it’s onwards and upwards!
Ok back to the patterns and what a fab selection the Pattern Parcel gals chose this time!
I have two little girls and I’m totally ecstatic about PPP#2! With this expertly curated collection of patterns, you have a complete little girl’s capsule wardrobe and what’s more, with a little pattern tweaking and imaginative fabric choices, I can see these patterns working all year round! There are wardrobe staples for everyday wear and some cute dress and blouse patterns for fancier occasions.
For my first outfit pick, I went with the Celestial Tee from Figgy’s patterns and The Hosh Pants from LouBee Clothing.
You see my little girls are action girls. They’re always whizzing round on their scooters and bikes and so their everyday outfits of choice are pretty simple – things they can easily dress themselves in preferably without complicated fastenings (did I mention how independent they like to be!) and can wear with ease. T-shirts, leggings and jeans get the most wear – things they can run around in and cake dirt on!
I think the Celestial tee and The Hosh Pants fit these requirements perfectly, although I hope my daughter doesn’t cake too much dirt on these!
The Celestial tee was super simple to put together. I used an organic cotton single jersey and an organic cotton rib jersey for the neck-band. Next time I make this, I’m going to try gathering the neck rather than doing the pleating to see how it looks, but either way, I think this front detail gives the top a cute girly look. It’s a great basic that I’m sure I’ll be making again and again.
The top has the same hi/lo hemline as the Dixie DIY Summer Concert Tee that was so popular in PPP#1 and I think it has the same relaxed vibe. I made this pattern up in age four for my three-year old and it is a bit wide around the neck but she can get away with it and hopefully it’ll see her through to next summer as well.
The Hosh Pants were also easy to make. The pattern suggests using light to mid-weight stretch woven fabrics so I used a baby cord cotton from Liberty Art Fabrics from my stash. I really love these pants, so practical and stylish. They’re like a skinny jean cut with nice slim legs but with enough ease to not restrict movement. An ingenious design!
They have an elasticated waistband but what really sets them apart from most elasticated waisted kid’s pants IMO is the waistband shaping. The waistband is lower at the front and the elastic is only in the back waistband piece. This dip in the front nicely accommodates my three year olds little baby Buddha belly (we can all associate with that problem, right?!) so the elastic doesn’t cut her in half which often happens with regular elastic waisted pants. The elastic section is also adjustable.
I’m a little jealous of these pants, I wish they came in adult’s sizes, I could do with a little adjustability myself these days!
I can’t wait to get going on the other patterns in this Pattern Parcel. My older daughter has already requested the Hanami dress by Straightgrain and my younger daughter wants to have the Caroline Party Dress by Mouse House Creations and I’ve got a pair of the bonus shorts pattern cut out, ready to be sewn up. I can see I’m going to be kept busy!
All in all, this is a great set of patterns, so don’t miss out! This offer is for a limited time only. You snooze, you lose my friends, so head over to www.patternparcel.com now!
Please leave a link in the comments below, I’d love to see what you make from PPP#2!
This is the Archer shirt pattern View B from Grainline Studio and I absolutely love it!
My love for my new Archer shirt is akin to the love you have for a newborn baby. I just can’t stop looking at it and marveling at what I’m made! Not because it’s anything unique. Hundreds of people have made this shirt pattern, it’s not like I’m the first or anything, but making this represents a huge personal milestone.
I’ve finally conquered shirt-making!
It feels like a sewing rite of passage on the road to self-made wardrobe greatness!
The sewing doors that this opens are very exciting. I can now make my hubby a shirt or tackle some more interesting garments for my children. Or just make more shirts for moi!
Either way, I feel like I’ve jumped a hurdle and I’m moving forwards and it feels goood!
I made this during Archer Appreciation month December 2013 – well almost made it. I ended up finishing it off at the beginning of January but it was the Archer Appreciation fervor that got me motivated to make it in the first place.
I’d had the PDF pattern bought and downloaded for several months but was too initimitated by it to make a start on it. I’m so grateful for the Archer Appreciation drive for getting me going.
I followed Jen of Grainline Studio’s Sew-A-Long for the shirt and it made making it a breeze. The sewalong breaks the making process down into manageable chunks and holds your hand the whole way. The only tricky part for me was finishing off the collar, but even this wasn’t really difficult, I just waited until I had a chance to finish it in daylight, when I wasn’t too tired so that I could concentrate properly. I make most mistakes when I’m tired and rush things.
I really like the pattern design. The shirt isn’t too fitted, just comfortable. Also the sleeves turned out the perfect length for me. This isn’t the first shirt I’ve made but it is the first well-made shirt that I’ve made and the other patterns that I’ve tried all had sleeves that were too long.
I chose to make this first trial of the pattern in Liberty Art Fabrics tana lawn cotton because:
a) I wanted a small, busy print that would hide any mistakes I made – although this wasn’t necessary thanks to the great sew-a-long instructions!
b) Having seen so many great versions of this pattern and read so many glowing reviews, I was confident that I could go ahead and cut into some ‘good’ fabric because it seemed unlikely that I’d encounter any major fitting issues.
c) I love Liberty tana lawn cotton fabric especially for shirts! It’s easy to sew with and to cut out and it’s great for layering in the cooler months and light and cool to wear in the summer.
I bought my fabric from Shaukat online because it’s much cheaper than buying from Liberty itself. I didn’t alter anything on the pattern and the fit is really good. I did all seams as French seams.
I’ve got so many more of these shirts planned of course, this pattern is just so useful for my everyday wardrobe! It would really be a crime not to repeat it!
On another note – I’ve just finished rearranging and organising my sewing space and I think my youngest daughter is now settled in Kindergarten. So I’m rolling up my sleeves and getting ready for some serious stash-busting!
This pattern hack of the Miette skirt pattern by Tilly and the Buttons, was the result of an online search of Miette pattern reviews and a suggestion by the lovely Oonaballoona on her blog to make the Miette into a maxi. I thought this was a great idea and immediately stole it was inspired to make one myself.
It’s really easy to make this pattern into a maxi. All you have to do is lengthen the bottom of the front and back pattern pieces to your desired final skirt length, being careful to follow the angle of the outer lines of the original pattern and remembering to include a hem allowance. Then construct the skirt as usual and voila, you have a maxi!
I used a really lightweight and fine linen bought from Anita Pavani online shop (http://www.naturstoff.de) in the Italian designer fabrics section, to make mine. It’s really nice to wear and has washed well. I did French seams to join the main skirt pieces.
(BTW – Anita Pavani provide washing care instructions for the fabrics they sell and they recommend not spinning linen in the washing machine when you wash it, you should hang it and allow it to drip dry instead.)
I partially lined my maxi-skirt with more of the organic cotton batiste that I bought at http://www.lebenskleidung.com, that has served me so well as a lining for all of my summer makes this year. The batiste is really lightweight so it hardly added to the weight of the skirt at all but just gave me enough coverage and confidence to step out in bright sunlight, safe in the knowledge that my undies weren’t on show! I didn’t line the overlap piece at the back because it wasn’t necessary.
I made another Wiksten tank top in a Liberty Art Fabrics cotton print to go with this skirt, which I wore on this day-trip to Venice, Italy during our summer holiday this year. Unfortunately I didn’t get a photo of it in Venice because by the time we’d reached the city from where we were staying, I’d already put my jumper on over the top of it, so here it is on my dress-form Beatrice.
BTW – If you’re planning to visit Venice, I would suggest getting to the Rialto bridge in time to catch the sun setting over the Grand Canal – the view is spectacular!
It gets a bit jammed with tourists though! You wouldn’t believe how many people I had to elbow in the face to get a bit of clearance for this photo!
Of course I’m exaggerating – it wasn’t that many!!
Anyway back to the Miette maxi skirt. It was comfortable and practical to wear for a day’s sightseeing around the quaint little streets of Venice.
Hanging with my kids in Venice
The skirt performed well under pressure, even under the harshest of test conditions, such as when I was hurling my toddler over the bridge into the canal for misbehaving! The back flap of the wrap didn’t budge all day, successfully avoiding any embarrassing wardrobe malfunctions!
No wardrobe malfunctions of the back wrapover flap.
Again, only joking of course – MY kids don’t misbehave!!
All in all, Tilly and the Buttons has created a very versatile skirt pattern and I love it!
As I write this, Tilly’s busy finishing off her first book for sewing beginners which is due out next spring. I can only imagine how good that’ll be! I wish her lots of luck with it and I’m sure it’ll be a huge success!
More YoSaMi news – don’t forget to stay tuned for the giveaway soon, it really is worth waiting for! You could win your very own pair of these delightful Collegien slipper socks!
Also, I’ve finally finished my red silk Anna dress by By Hand London after what feels like f-o-r-e-v-e-r! I’ll be posting it as soon as I’ve had a chance to photograph it!!